Bad Habits:

Bad habits can form very easily, and should be tackled before they develop rather than trying to access the habit after it has become a problem. From a very early age dogs need to know discipline. Rather than jumping in to punish a dog, try to divert a situation from worsening by working on eliminating a problem.

Vaccinations:

Keeping up to date with your dogs vaccination schedule is just as important in a small kennel as it is in a large one. In Ireland it is normally recommended that dogs are vaccinated on a yearly basis. If you only have a few dogs, your veterinarian can administer the vaccine. However in larger kennels, it is probably best to do it yourself as having a vet do it can be extremely expensive. Your vet should be able to show you how to administer a vaccination.

Lameness:

There are many causes of lameness, however it is important to look after it as soon as it occurs. If visible lameness persists for more than a day or two, you should consult your Vet. Some of the causes of lameness are: tendonitis, injuries to the toes, broken bones, osteomyelitis, dysplacia, arthritis, sore or cut feet etc.

Checklist:

Many of the bigger kennels have strict routines and checklists to ensure that all health checks are up to date, dogs are the correct weight, dogs coats are in good conditions, without sores, etc. Do a regular check of the dog houses, and carry out repairs if needed.  Routines are important too. Have a certain day to change the bedding, wash down runs etc. That way you will always keep ahead of any problems. By doing this you can be assured of a healthy and happy kennel.

Feed:

Without proper feeding, you cannot expect your dog to perform to the best of his capabilities. Many mushers feed commercial dog foods, but many also supplement the food with vitamiins, meat  and other such things. If you feed a good quality dog food and are not racing your dogs professionally, this should be adequate. However professional racing mushers  research the dogs food prior to using as feeding the wrong food or inadequate food for the dogs needs will mean slower and less healthy dogs.

Collars:

There are lots of different dog collars, many of which are reasonably priced and very durable. Nylon collars are durable and cheap. However if you have a collar eating dog, you could thread chain through hollow nylon tubing. This will quickly teach the dog that chewing his collar won't get him anywhere. It is not a good idea to use rope as a collar, even as a temporary measure, as it can damage the fur and the skin.

Tie Out Lines:

A must for the musher that travels with more than a couple of dogs. A tie out line enables the musher to leave the dogs out, getting fresh air and safely away from causing any harm. They are mainly made of aircraft cable or chain. It is important to ensure that the dogs, whilst close together on a tie out line, that they cannot reach each other, causing injury.

Over Heating:

It is not only during the summer months that dogs can overheat. It is important to know the signs to look out for: vomiting, a change in gait i.e. wobbly legs, panting with a wide open mouth, or any other signs of weakness. If you suspect that your dog may be overheating, you should take it out of the team and carry it. Check its temperature as soon as possible and continue to check every fifteen minutes. If the dogs temperature still hasnt returned to normal 1 hour after the run, you should call your vet immediately. A dogs temperature is considered normal at 101-102degrees F.

Tyre Pulling:

This is one of the recommended ways to begin to train your dogs to pull. Often asked, is 'where do I go from there?'. When you use a command to start when they begin to 'pull' the tyre, for example: 'hike' or 'go' etc..the dog should begin to associate the start command with pulling on. Moving on to walking, running, scootering behind the dog, using the same command should create the same reaction: to pull. Repetition is the key, and then moving on to variation of circumstance, i.e. walking, bike etc....

Teaching to Stop:

Teaching to stop is often more difficult than teaching to 'Hike!'. Having the ability to stop your dogs is very important. You mush be physically able to hold your dogs back in order to effectively teach this command. Whether you go out with one dog at a time or train with the help of someone assisting, the dogs must learn to understand that 'whoa' means stop. If they are not enclined to listen, you must forcibly stop them using the brake to jerk them to a stop, whilst calling them to 'whoa'.. This will help them to realise that it is on your command that they must slow to a complete stop. This command is best learned by being practiced repeatedly at different intervals throughout the training sessions.

Recreational Mushing:

Before you begin, take some time out to decide what you really need from your dogs. If you have a young family and you want them to be able to enjoy working with your dogs, it might be a good idea to select dogs that are small and of a gentle nature that would be suitable for children. You could choose older or retired dogs from another team and they could also help train your younger, less experienced dogs.

Racing:

In your first race, it is often best to start with fewer dogs. You will need to be very experienced in handling all of your dogs, have basic first aid knowledge in the event of an injury and always be in control of your team.  A smaller team is easier to handle. The best time to learn these things is during your training sessions, and not in the middle of a race.

Encourage:

Listen, talk, encourage and reward. Take time to have a fun time, and never be afraid to ask for advise or help. Practice voice commands with your dogs, even by letting them run ahead of you on a leash. When your dogs know what you want from them, they will work better for you.

Fitness:

Don’t expect your dog to do more than his fitness level comfortably allows. This only serves to discourage the dog and can cause serious injury. Let the fitness level build up gradually, with both musher and dog enjoying the experience and building on the musher dog relationship.

Water:

Water is the most essential part of a dogs diet. The effects of dehydration on and animal become apparent immediately and in extreme cases can lead to the death of an animal within hours. It is of paramount importance to keep your dog hydrated at all times, always having ample amounts of water readily available

In the Doghouse:

All dogs should have adequate accommodation. It should be dry and free from draughts. It should be large enough for the dog to be able to turn around comfortably.

Dog Fights:

Dogs should be trained at an early age that fighting with their team mates or other dogs, is unacceptable. Fighting can be dangerous for both the dogs and the musher. Some preventions include disciplining when dogs are inclined to growl or stare down other dogs, spaying/neutering, and being extra careful when any females are in heat.

Impatience:

There will be days when your dog just doesn’t want to or seem to understand what you need him to do. It is important not to loose your temper, as this only serves to discourage and confuse the dog. Walk away, cool down and try again later.

Discipline:

This can come in many forms. All dogs are different, and all react differently to different levels and kinds of discipline. The intent should never be to cause pain or injury. Always be sure to stay in control of the situation. Among wolves, the appearance of ferocity is often as effective as the act of ferocity. This is also often found to be just as effective with sleddogs.

Mental Stimulation:

During the off season, it is just as important to provide mental stimulation for your dogs as it is during the racing season. Spending some time teaching simple tricks for example, bringing them on the occasional outing, or even into the family home, further helps to strengthen the bond between dog and musher. This also helps towards an easier transition into the winter training season.

Pups in Harness:

Between the ages of 5-8months is a good time to get the pups used to wearing a harness and bringing them for short runs. Remember that the pups are not fully developed at this age, so it is important to make it a fun experience and also not to expect too much from them. Never drag pups, and if a pup becomes scared, stop and reassure. Mushing must always be seen as a positive experience by pups, if it is to be a part of their adult lives. From the age of 8-12 months is ideal for teaching voice commands and all the other basics of mushing: e.g. avoiding tangles, harness chewing, etc. Most important as always is having a good time.

Your Vet:

Get to know your veterinarian. You never know when you may need to call him in the middle of the night to visit a sick dog. Your vet can be a valuable source of information and advise. Some vets have more experience with sleddog type breeds than others so don’t be afraid to ask around for who is best recommended. Always keep your vaccinations up to date, and it is important to perform regular routine health checks.

Safety:

Before you go out on the trail with your dogs, always perform a thorough safety check. Inspect harnesses, lines, and all equipment. Make sure there are no breaks or excessive wear and tear. Make sure all snaps, quick release clips and carabiners are functioning correctly, and that there are no tears in the harnesses. Remember that safety precautions are in the best interests of both you and your dogs, and others around you.

Noisy Dogs:

It is important to teach your dogs to be quiet, especially if you have neighbours close by. Dogs bark for a reason e.g.: to communicate with other dogs, to get your attention or even to announce a visitor. The occasional happy howl is always acceptable. Over zealous howlers need to be trained to be a little quieter. One method, though time consuming is to give a reward when the dog is quiet or alternatively, to discipline when they are noisy. The discipline can come in the form of a voice command or a simple tap on the top of their kennel. Sometimes though, more extreme measures are called for.

Travelling:

Try to get your sleddog used to travelling in dog boxes, crates or trailers at an early age. This prevents unnecessary anxiety and stress when they need to travel to races when they get older, and possibly affecting their performance.

For more detailed information on training, contact us